By Maia Oakley
Courtesy of Valentino
Alessandro Michele’s runway debut for Valentino at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 was a maximalist extravaganza - a concoction of the brand's history and Michele’s eclectic vision. Though he teased his vision for Valentino in the resort collection earlier this year, the "Pavillon des Folies" collection marked Michele’s first major appearance on the runway for the brand, captivating the audience with a theatrical, boundary-pushing experience.
Set against a hauntingly beautiful backdrop of dim lighting, broken mirrors a s flooring, and antique furniture draped in sheer white fabrics, the runway resembled an abandoned manor. This scene illustrated Michele’s description of joining Valentino: a feeling of entering an unknown yet inviting world filled with fragile beauty. Among the audience were A-listers like Harry Styles, Jared Leto, Elton John, and Florence Welch, who witnessed Michele’s reinterpretation of Valentino’s golden age - the late 1960s through 1980s - through his own lens. This show was a personal and beautifully chaotic celebration of history.
Courtesy of Valentino
Veils, oversized hats, faux fur, piercings, and florals were just the beginning of the maximalist offering that graced the runway. Models wore dramatic layers of ruffles, polka dots, feathers and elaborate embellishments, demonstrating Michele's passion for the joy of dressing up. His embrace of coquettish motifs was a nostalgic nod to Valentino’s reign in the 60s, and references to the flamboyant 70s - including paisley trousers and chiffon gowns - which signalled his love for the decade that inspired much of his work at Gucci. Even Regency-era elements were reimagined, with Swarosvki crystal encrusted gowns and ruff collars.
Aiming to transcend and blend eras, Michele’s collection created a stunning aesthetic and historical feast. Running through his work was also the idea of beauty as emotional and deeply personal, honouring Valentino’s reputation while remaining true to Michele’s style. “When I say beauty,” he explained, “I allude to that unique capability to deeply feel and connect with something.” He also emphasised that authenticity is crucial for designers, with his work thriving on personality, creativity and drama, rejecting restriction. Valentino’s classic polka dots received Michele’s unique twist, lending them an interesting flair. The house’s signature scarlet red was also Michele-ified and used daringly, while still preserving Valentino’s iconic glamour. This collection encouraged viewers to come together to find beauty in unexpected places and fresh forms, challenging convention and witnessing Michele’s unapologetic self-expression.
The “Pavillon des Folies” collection has made clear Michele’s mark at Valentino, breathing new life into the house with undaunted artistry and a “more-is-more” approach. The show celebrated not only history but a dramatic new era for the house, ruled by imagination and expression. With his first haute couture collection for Valentino set to debut in January 2025, and after his enthralling runway debut, all eyes are on Alessandro Michele.
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