By Bethany Berkeley
Pal Hansen/The Observer
Ashish Gupta is a British fashion designer who has been creating bold and colourful designs for over 20 years. His eponymous label is known for its eclectic mix of cultures and influences, from Indian embroidery to Japanese anime.
Gupta was born in Delhi, India, and studied fine art before moving to London to study fashion design at Central Saint Martins. After graduating, he launched his own label in 2001. His early collections were met with critical acclaim, and he quickly gained a reputation for his unique and daring designs.
Gupta's work is often described as "maximalist," and he is not afraid to push the boundaries of fashion. He often uses unconventional materials and techniques, such as hand embroidery, patchwork, and beading. His designs are also known for their bold colours and prints, which are often inspired by his Indian heritage. In addition to his fashion designs, Gupta is also a vocal advocate for diversity and inclusion in the fashion industry. He has spoken out against racism and size discrimination, and he has worked to create a more inclusive fashion space for all.
Worn by celebrities such as Rihanna, Beyoncé, and Debbie Harry, Gupta's designs have also been featured in exhibitions at the Victoria and Albert Museum and the Metropolitan Museum of Art. In 2023, he celebrated 20 years of his eponymous label with a retrospective exhibition at the V&A. The exhibition featured over 100 garments from his archives, as well as personal items and sketches.
Ashish AW23
His AW23 collection featured a mix of US-style sportswear and vintage sari shirts, as well as Madras check slacks and chunky snowflake knits. Leopard print crop tops and patchwork jeans give off a hippy-chic vibe, whilst ombre striped tops, trousers, and backless dresses took on faded, muddy hues that evoked the blistering sun.
A true original, Gupta's work continues to push the boundaries of fashion. He is a pioneer in the fight for diversity and inclusion, which is a continuous inspiration to designers around the world.
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