By Madeleine Foster
Filipo Fior/Gorunway
Denma took Balenciaga back to its roots for its Resort 2025 collection, showcased in a dramatic display at the Shanghai Museum of Art Pudong. This wasn't a return to traditional silhouettes, however. He revisited the brand's signature codes established during his debut in Autumn/Winter 2016, with a focus on bold proportions and a touch of subversion.
The collection was dominated by black and grey with pops of red, pink, blue, and gold for a touch of unexpected vibrancy. Sharp-shouldered power suits returned, a cornerstone of the Denma era at Balenciaga, often paired with form-fitting bodysuits or dramatic lace-trimmed dresses. This collection wasn't about a complete revival; these power suits felt updated, exuding a sense of confident femininity.
Denma wouldn't be Denma without pushing boundaries. The collection featured ultra-elongated silhouettes, accentuated by extreme platform boots and overlong coats. This play on proportion is a signature of the brand, and here it felt both striking and strangely wearable.
Filipo Fior/Gorunway
Deconstruction also played a role, with a trench dress reimagined with a low-slung belt and broad shoulders. Accessories were equally playful, with black visors and wraparound shades alongside innovative reinterpretations like shirts transformed into handbags and puffer jackets reworked into totes. A gold foil bubble dress and a ballgown detailed with trompe l'oeil feathers crafted from recycled plastics showcased his ability to blend high fashion with a dose of irreverence.
The Resort 2025 collection sparked some debate from critics and social media alike. Some seeing it as a return to familiar territory, while others appreciate the refinement of the brand's core DNA. Regardless of perspective, one thing is clear: Balenciaga remains a leader in pushing the boundaries of fashion, and under Denma's direction, the brand isn't afraid to celebrate its past while forging a bold path forward to its future.
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