By FashioningLife
Remain SS24 (Vogue Scandinavia)
Here is what you may have missed from the second day of SS24 Copenhagen Fashion Week.
With a total of nine shows, this second day of Copenhagen Fashion Week was full of captivating performances. Featuring emerging brands such as Nicklas Skovgaard, Stamm, Rolf Ekroth, Vain, and P.L.N, some of them showing for the first time, the schedule was full of promising talent.
The day opened with Nicklas Skovgaard, a Copenhagen-based brand, exploring the connection between textiles and the expression of narratives. Through strong storytelling, Skovgaard staged a unique show inspired by the concept of the muse, more specifically by painter Gerda Wegener and her wife/muse Lili Gebe. In the designer’s case, the muse was local artist Britt Leberg. Wandering around the stage, putting on and off clothes displayed on a discreet rail, the artist was surrounded by mannequins, also wearing the collection. Giving life to the garments, which included heavily draped jersey dresses, skirts, and hand-applied ostrich feathers, for an overall baroque feel, edging between romanticism and realism.
Nicklas Skovgaard SS24 (James Cochrane / Vogue Runway)
To end the day, P.L.N hosted a captivating collection in Nikolaj Kunsthal church based in the heart of the capital. Walking down the runway led by ominous techno music, models donned McQueen-esque designs, reminiscent of the exploration of subjectivity. Deeply inspired by subcultures, Peter Lundvald Nielsen developed obscure and deconstructed silhouettes, "encouraging the individual wearer to interpret the garment". Whilst wearing nose bandages and mouth guards, models were dressed in seemingly dirty old curtains draped as gowns, cycling shorts with oversized leather jackets, metallic strapless knee-length jumpsuits, and asymmetrical zip-up tops.
Although not all shows included performances, their collections were equally as strong in craftsmanship and creativity. Rolf Ekroth, part of the NEWTALENT program, delivered its debut runway in a skatepark in central Copenhagen. Drawing inspiration from personal 1990s nostalgia, “my parents’ memories of the delicate 1960s, and my grandparents’ yearning for a bygone yet persistently present past” said the designer. The collection was a fusion of romanticism and utilitarianism, paying tribute to “hardworking countryside people”. The collection featured his signature oversized jackets, tartan wide-leg pants, and raincoats, all with hand-painted rose patterns and breezy pastels.
Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com
Lovechild 1979 delivered a collection for the “quintessential woman”. Inspired by the idea of a “proficient, imaginative, self-reflective and sophisticated woman”, the creative director, Mia Kappelgaard, created an elegant and timeless collection significative of Scandinavian silhouettes. The nude colour palette, life, and overall fluid and oversized garments created a beautiful collection, directly inspired by Irving Penn’s work with still life. Exploring an interest in raw materials, Lovechild 1979 aimed at creating intuitive garments whilst “letting the idea of materiality echo its own nuances.”
This second day of CPFW proved the extent of the capital’s pure talents and has left us even more excited for what’s to come. Day 3 will see another set of nine designers presenting their collections such as Skall Studio, The Garment, and Wood Wood.
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