By Bethany Berkeley
COS AW23
COS returned to New York Fashion Week this September to present its Autumn Winter 2023 collection, an exploration of contrasts between tradition and innovation.
The collection was staged at the Manhattan Classic Car Club against the backdrop of the Hudson River at sunset, with the runway a rich, deep brown, contrasting with the iridescent shine of metallic sculptural forms that framed the space and captured the evening light. Galvanised steel curves raised to reveal a soft, illuminating glow as the models walked the space, radiating confidence and ease in the elegant yet powerful collection. The 43 looks encapsulated the core principles of timelessness, uncompromising quality, and day-to-evening dressing. Functional yet innovative tailoring was explored through methods of deconstruction, with classic cuts reinvented from the inside out. Trouser suits were refined, waistcoats reimagined, and confidently structured shoulders contrasted with fluid silk maxi-lengths, creating a bold visual statement and elongated silhouette.
Standout head-to-toe knitwear looks in pared-back styles were finished with hoods, oversized fringed scarves, and hybrids that combined the utilitarian and the beautiful. Fringing on capes and dresses, and neck scarf detailing on shirts effortlessly elevated pieces from day to evening.
COS AW23
The show also debuted the Autumn Winter 2023 COS Atelier collection, marking the third capsule of its kind. Rooted in craftsmanship and innovation, the collection features intricate hand-knitted crochet looks made from Responsible Mohair Standard mohair, as well as fine details like delicate leather tassels adorning wool outerwear, made from off-cut materials. As nature was synonymous with this season's colour palette, soothing neutral tones complemented rich earthy browns, alongside bespoke prints. Matte textures were fused with metallics and shine, creating a modern and sophisticated look.
Quality and longevity remained at the collection's core. Adjustable elements ensured the perfect fit of a classic well-tailored suit, while reversible pieces delivered versatility, ensuring each item served a purpose. Everyday pieces were enhanced through exploratory textures, such as soft leather, herringbone, and chunky knits. Material consideration was seen throughout, with over 92% of the collection made from more sustainably sourced materials, including high-quality knits crafted from recycled and GCS cashmere.
A selection of items from the show collection are available immediately at COS stores and cos.com, whilst limited numbers will continue to drop throughout the season and COS Atelier will be available from October.
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