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Fashion Musical Chairs: Major Shifts In The Business Of Fashion

By Shaked Yanko

fashions musical chairs - luxury sector shakeup in the business of fashion

Fendi AW24 Credit: CR Fashionbook


The fashion industry is no stranger to rapid changes, but the past few months have seen an extraordinary level of upheaval, with leadership transitions and strategic moves that are reshaping the future of major brands. From executive appointments to significant business decisions, fashion’s biggest names are entering a period of transformation that could have long-term implications for the industry.


One of the most headline-grabbing moves was Hedi Slimane's exit from Celine. Slimane, known for his distinctive vision and influence on the brand, left Celine- earlier this month in the hands of Michael Rider, a fresh figure expected to redefine the brand’s direction. Rider’s appointment signals a shift, possibly toward new market strategies aimed at appealing to a broader, more diverse consumer base. As Celine charts its next course, Rider’s leadership will be crucial in adapting the brand’s aesthetic and business model to align with current market demands.


In another significant shift that took place this month, LVMH sold Off-White to Bluestar Alliance, a move that has raised questions about the luxury conglomerate’s broader strategy. Off-White, once a symbol of the streetwear-luxury fusion, now moves into the hands of a new owner. This sale may reflect LVMH’s focus on streamlining its portfolio to concentrate on more traditional, high-margin luxury brands. However, this decision also coincides with LVMH’s reported 5% drop in fashion and leather goods sales, missing market estimates. Could the sale of Off-White have played a role in this downturn? While Off-White was never the largest revenue driver for LVMH, its cultural relevance and connection to younger consumers was significant. The divestment could suggest that LVMH is shifting its focus away from the streetwear segment that has cooled in recent years, but the financial impact of this choice remains a topic of speculation.


Celine AW24 CREDIT: SHOW Studio


This recent performance of LVMH, particularly the drop in fashion and leather goods sales, highlights a broader issue in the luxury sector. Rising inflation, shifting consumer preferences, and global economic uncertainties are forcing even the most established brands to rethink their strategies. LVMH’s sale of Off-White could have been a part of this repositioning, focusing resources on core luxury sectors. However, the question remains whether the divestment of such a culturally significant brand might have contributed to the recent sales decline. As Off-White moves on to its next phase under Bluestar, LVMH may need to re-evaluate how to fill the void left by a brand that once captured the zeitgeist of the streetwear era.


Meanwhile, leadership shakeups in the industry seem to be ever-present, with Elliot Hill stepping in to replace John Donahoe as CEO at Nike, hailing a new era for the sportswear titan. Hill, with his extensive experience in brand strategy, is expected to drive forward Nike’s digital innovation and global market expansion. As the company continues to face fierce competition, Hill’s appointment is likely to push Nike toward further change in both product offerings and sustainability, key areas for growth in the coming years.


Dior has also made a high-profile change, appointing Benedetta Petruzzo, former Miu Miu CEO, as Managing Director. This appointment could bring new energy to Dior, blending tradition with the modern, youthful touch Petruzzo is known for. Her tenure at Miu Miu demonstrated her ability to balance avant-garde with commercial success, and Dior is likely to benefit from her expertise as it seeks to resonate more deeply with younger, trend-conscious consumers.


Fashion’s major players are in a state of flux, with leadership changes and strategic shifts that will define the industry’s future. This season marked the beginning of a new chapter for many of these global brands, and current decisions made will have a lasting impact on their market positioning. As brands continue to adapt to a rapidly changing world, the game of musical chairs in the fashion world reflects a need for agility and foresight. The only certainty is that the business of fashion, like its trends, is constantly evolving. Those who can navigate these changes, while maintaining a strong connection to their consumer base, will be the ones who thrive in the next era.

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