By Maia Oakley
GANNI SS25 credit: Monica Feudi
Danish fashion house GANNI made a shift from Copenhagen to Paris for Fashion Week (PFW), presenting its latest collection, titled The Craft, at Palais de Tokyo on September 24. GANNI’s appearance in Paris indicates a new era for the label with Laura du Rusquec, formerly executive of Balenciaga, at the helm as CEO. Ganni’s Parisian debut follows lingering discussions of protracted sales, indicating fresh prospects for the brand.
At the Galerie Haute of Palais de Tokyo, guests were met by a mesmerising sculpture of a bubbling cauldron made from recycled aluminium, symbolic of sustainable innovation and joyously unrestrained design. The front row was reserved for stars such as Kelly Rutherford, Liza Koshy, Mahalia, and Yuna.
GANNI SS25 credit: Monica Feudi
The Craft collection was a blend of sophistication and GANNI’s distinctive playfulness, refined yet rebellious. The show opened with a soft white look featuring a sculpted blazer with matching Bermuda shorts and a sheer shirt. The season’s designs experimented with juxtaposing silhouettes and opposite aesthetics, pairing structured and utilitarian elements with feminine flourishes and romanticism. GANNI also played with contrasting colours and prints, making this runway messy and combative, yet refined. Animal prints clashed with florals, bold pigments were coupled with neutral black and whites, organzas with leathers, and traditional trench coats with whimsical details vaguely reminiscent of fantasy pirate/witch attire. Chrome eyelets and biker-boot buckles were recurring embellishments in the collection, and the label’s logo made its appearance in gold.
Celebrating a commitment to sustainability, six new textiles were debuted from Fabrics of the Future, GANNI’s initiative to reduce the carbon footprint within the next 5 years. GANNI will soon offer 30 eco-friendly materials as alternatives to those traditionally used, such as synthetic fibres and leather. This represents the enormous shift of environmental consciousness and protection taking over the global fashion industry.
The collection was complemented by laced boxing boots and pointed-toe ballerina shoes, as well as an array of intricately handcrafted bags, spotlighting the work of upcoming designers Nicklas Skovgaard and Claire Sullivan.
The final look presented was a striking red dress made up of a bodice and voluminous framed skirt. Guests, along with creative director Ditte Reffstrup, were left deeply moved as the show closed and gave a standing ovation. Reffstrup described The Craft as a “channel (of) the intuitive confidence and dynamic energy of the GANNI woman”, and upon reflection named it a tribute to bravery, empowerment and connection.
GANNI’s foray into the Paris fashion scene could mark one of the label's most significant transitions since its inception in 2000 — a new chapter centred on creativity, community and sustainability at its core.
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