John Galliano’s Transformative Decade At Maison Margiela

By Shaked Yanko

Kevin Tachman/MG19/Getty Images

John Galliano’s arrival at Maison Margiela in 2014 marked a pivotal moment for the fashion house, blending his theatrical vision with Margiela’s avant-garde roots. His debut collection for Spring 2015, unveiled in London, was a bold statement that highlighted his ability to honor the brand’s legacy while infusing his signature drama. Deconstructed tailoring, unexpected materials, and surrealist elements defined the show, introducing a fresh energy to the house and signalling Galliano’s triumphant return to the fashion world.

Among Galliano’s most innovative contributions to Margiela was the introduction of the decortiqué technique. This approach, which involved stripping garments down to their skeletal frameworks, became a defining element of his creative direction. In collections like Spring 2018 Artisanal, Galliano explored themes of transparency and layering, offering a contemporary take on Margiela’s deconstructive DNA. The result was clothing that felt both raw and ethereal, showcasing Galliano’s mastery of melding the past with the present.

One of Galliano’s most visionary moments came with the Spring 2020 Artisanal Collection. Inspired by the digital age, he wove themes of technology and self-presentation into his designs. From fragmented silhouettes to garments mimicking digital glitches, the collection reflected the growing influence of virtual identities in the modern era. It was an ambitious commentary on how technology shapes perception, proving Galliano’s ability to merge storytelling with cutting-edge fashion.

Now, after an extraordinary decade at the helm, Galliano has stepped down from his role at Maison Margiela. His tenure, defined by groundbreaking collections and visionary techniques, revitalised the brand and redefined its identity for a new generation. As the fashion world reflects on his legacy, it’s clear that Galliano’s decade-long leadership left an indelible mark, ensuring that Maison Margiela remains synonymous with innovation and artistry.