By Shaked Yanko
Courtesy of Acne Studios
Helmed by creative director Johnny Johansson, Acne Studios unveiled its SS25 collection earlier this week in Paris. The show itself was set amidst the backdrop that was striking white, with guests seated on painted sofas in teh shape of grafitted childrens plush toy, reflecting the creative tone of the collection.
As the show unfolded, a surprising juxtaposition emerged between corporate-inspired looks and more slouchy, softer designs, marking an unusual departure for Acne. Models showcased blouses, ankle-length skirts, and heels—a more formal take compared to the brand’s typically relaxed aesthetic. Structured leather blazers and coats dominated the runway, a considerable focus for a spring/summer collection, but their clean lines and sharp tailoring added a powerful edge.
Courtesy of Acne Studios
The standout element of the show was the sheer uniqueness of each piece. Denim, leather, plaid, and crochet all featured heavily, blending a variety of textures and colours that kept the collection fresh and unexpected. Among the leather pieces were structured blazers and long coats, paired with leather-heeled boots, some adorned with painted designs reminiscent of the couches in the audience. Oversized bags, another signature touch, emphasised Acne Studios’ penchant for blending practicality with artistic flair. The contrast between heavy outerwear and short dresses added an intriguing layer to the show, challenging traditional spring/summer fashion norms.
This collection prompted the question: is Acne Studios leaning more into a winter brand identity? With an emphasis on leather and outerwear, the collection seemed more aligned with cooler seasons, but the playful use of lighter fabrics like crochet and the vibrant colour palette balanced this perception.
Ultimately, the Acne Studios SS25 collection reflected the brand's characteristic blend of contradiction and creativity, delivering a show that felt both seasonally unexpected yet uniquely Acne.
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