By Valentine Fabre
Credit: BFC ( Qasimi SS24)
London Fashion Week Men’s which was 4 days in total this year, centred mainly around events and shows. From panel discussions to catwalks and student shows, LFW saw the launch of a new platform in collaboration with the British Council of Fashion, dedicated to creating a more interactive space for the public. Here is what you might want to catch up on:
Designer Shows
The reason we all impatiently wait for Fashion Weeks throughout the year: the shows. This year, LFW left us hungry with a very sparse selection of menswear shows (leaving it to Milan and Paris to fill the void) but luckily enough, the few shows we had did not disappoint. The week started with Quasimi, which can only be described as a poetic exercise of craftsmanship. The genderless clearly shows its Middle Eastern roots while giving its urban looks a Mediterranean approach.
On June 11th, emerging talent, Martine Rose, released a sensual collection in the Northern parts of London. The show took place in St. Joseph’s Community Centre, in accordance with Rose's community-focused influences. The collection was filled with reimagining workwear and clubbing look, featuring plunging necklines under oversized yellow jackets, lace corsets and working reflective pants, and silky dresses on top of straight black denim pants, Martine Rose reshaped traditional working men’s garments and incorporated a touch of colour and club-esque vibe, formerly an integral part of young people’s lives.
Saul Nash SS24 & Qasimi SS24
Finally, LFW closed with none other than Saul Nash, rising star of London’s fashion scene. Taking place in one of the ICA’s claustrophobic rooms, the heatwave was never so welcome. With sounds of waves, a picture of the sunset in the background and a floor covered with sand, Saul Nash SS24 was the perfect mix of beach and sportswear for this summer. Full bodysuits, goggles, swimming caps, terry cloth shirts, and beach towels around the neck, this collection is an exploration of the designer's first visit to the East African island of Mauritius.
Graduate Shows
Of course, no Fashion Week would be complete without the traditional student catwalks. This week, it was time for the University of Westminster and the University of East London students to show their work. The former explored themes such as Afrofuturism, tactile jazz-inspired knits, the 1960s French new wave, opulent Iranian layering, 1940’s hop pickers, the paintings of Richard Smith and Polish folk costume in a beautiful blend of garments. While the latter, for its second time participating in London Fashion Week, explored personal narratives such as diaspora, gender identity, sexuality, and communities. Both graduate showcases expressed hope for the future of fashion and give us extremely talented and newly emerging talents to discover.
Martine Rose SS24 & Daniel W. Fletcher SS24
Finally, as part of its holistic experience, LFW also hosted varied panels such as “BFC x The Asian Man: An Exploration into The Forgotten Style Tribe” or “BFC X Future of Menswear” to reflect on the global status of menswear fashion.
The next steps of June’s Fashion Month will take place on the other side of the channel, in the world’s historic fashion capitals, with very enticing names such as Louis Vuitton, where we will see Pharrell William’s first collection as Creative Director, BOTTER, Bianca Saunders, Walter van Beirendonck, Wales Bonner (who was recently awarded the BFC x British GQ Designer Fashion Fund), Rick Owens, Loewe, and many others.
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