By Bethany Berkeley
Courtesy of Marni (photography by Giovanni Giannoni)
Adding a touch of animalism to this season's collection.
Milan's Stazione Centrale played host to a unique fashion experience this Fashion Week. Marni, under the creative direction of Francesco Risso, presented its Autumn/Winter 2024 collection in a setting devoid of external references, stripping fashion back to its core essence.
Ditching conventional runway set design, Risso cloaked the space in white paper, creating an expansive blank canvas. This deliberate absence of stimulation aimed to propel the collection itself into the spotlight, allowing the designs' inherent creativity to take centre stage. The collection opened with a touch of unexpected elegance. Models emerged in structured separates and coats, all rendered in a sombre black. This initial starkness served as a prelude to the vibrant explosion that followed. Suddenly, the runway erupted with bold cheetah and leopard prints, covering models from head to toe in a celebration of untamed beauty.
Courtesy of Marni (photography by Giovanni Giannoni)
Whilst the animal prints undoubtedly captured attention, the collection offered much more. Textural exploration played a key role, with luxurious velvets and felts juxtaposed against shimmering satins and translucent silks. Faux fur took centre stage as well, appearing in diverse forms – flowing dramatically from greatcoats or adding a touch of rebellion when sculpted into spikes.
Risso's decision to remove external references went beyond mere aesthetics. It served as a statement, a deliberate attempt to create a collection that exists independent of trends and influences. The show became a story in itself, one that unfolded in a world of contrasts – structured versus fluid, classic elegance versus wild abandon.
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