Paris Fashion Week: Debuts And Loud Luxury

By Sara Fabek Zovko

Courtesy of Louis Vuitton

Paris Fashion Week introduced a whirlwind of new, old and somewhere in-between.

Paris Fashion Week this March presented a double narrative: the introduction of new creative directors from major fashion houses, and a reaffirmation of the seasoned designers' continued relevance.

Sarah Burton’s Givenchy Debut

Courtesy of Givenchy

Sarah Burton’s long awaited debut for Givenchy saw her remain loyal to the fashion house’s signature style, while simultaneously adding contemporary touches that kept the collection fashion forward. Her renowned sharp tailoring was prominently present in impeccably constructed suits and coats, and intricate embroidery and details were entwined within pieces ranging from dresses to shoes. Tulle was a surprising guest within the collection, with pieces in yellow and white making an appearance, while Burton’s personal style came through in a looking glass-esque mini dress covered in compact and miniature mirrors.

Ackerman’s New Beginnings In Tom Ford

Courtesy of Tom Ford

Tom Ford’s new creative director, Haider Ackermann, took the term “power dressing” to heart with the brand’s autumn collection. With pops of colour scattered throughout the collection, the pieces presented were sharp, clean and borderline intimidating. Focusing on androgyny when it came to silhouettes, the collection encompassed looks that could take to a red carpet just as easily as it could on a street.

Dries Van Noten — By Julien Klausner

Courtesy of Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten’s new creative director debuted with the brand’s Autumn 2025 collection. Titled “Behind the Curtain”, the collection took inspiration from childlike playfulness, combining elegance with play. Influences from 1930s were prominent throughout, with geometric motifs and playful patterns elevating the pieces beyond an homage to the decade. Taking on the position of creative director immediately following its founder stepping down is no easy feat, but Klausner kept the Van Noten essentials intact while creating a path for himself to follow within the brand.

From Grunge To Punk: Ann Demeulemeester

Courtesy of Ann Demeulemeester

Stefano Gallici went from grunge to punk in the brand’s new Autumn/Winter collection. Reinvention, dramatics and pieces that were rough around the edges were all themes present throughout the collection. Layering, ruffles, lace trimmings and intentional fraying made for an intricate homage to the punk movement, completed with boots and headbands. Torn up pieces of knitwear and sleeveless coats epitomised rebellion within fashion, as the collection took a detour from the usual but definitely did not disappoint.

Louis Vuitton’s Trip Around The World

Courtesy of Louis Vuitton

The Louis Vuitton Autumn 2025 collection embodied the idea of destination hopping and glamorous, yet chaotic, travel. Ranging from silk dresses and skirts to overcoats and trenchcoats, the collection was a modern-day iteration of “Around the World in 80 Days” — in fashion terms. The pieces were a mix of season-appropriate, movement supporting pieces, as well as maxi dresses and gowns with embellishments — practically exactly what one packs for a brief holiday that takes place anytime or anywhere.

Alexander McQueen Feat. Oscar Wilde

Courtesy of McQueen

McGirr’s third runway for the iconic McQueen took inspiration from Oscar Wilde and dandyism with a darker twist. Embellishments were present in the form of feathers, lace, jewels and ruffles and tied the collection together as it travelled through dark variations of blues, greens and reds. The signature skull pattern also took centre stage in several looks on the runway, creating a callback to the brand’s journey in the 2010s.