By Ayanda Ntuli
Mugler SS25
Paris — the city of lights, love, and the undisputed capital of fashion. As Paris Fashion Week turned 50, the event delivered on every level, with bold designs, elegance, and innovative silhouettes all making waves. From timeless pieces to avant-garde statements, the collections highlighted the versatility and creativity that make Parisian style iconic. Here are some of the standout shows of this season.
The Paris-based womenswear brand Zomer, led by Dutch designer Danial Aitouganov and stylist Imruh Asha, brought a youthful yet refined energy to Paris Fashion Week. The collection featured vibrant botanical prints with a playful romantic edge. Zomer’s use of bright colours and unique silhouettes gave a fresh, dynamic feel, while floral elements showed off intricate detailing. Standout pieces in the collection were floral dresses in collaboration with DEBEAULIEU and the blooming, mechanical flower sculptures by ISABEL + HELEN. . The combination of sculptural shapes and use of proportions, further solidify Zomer as a brand to watch going forward.
Zomer SS25 credit:NowFashion
You know the saying, 'not everything is black and white'? Well, for Luis de Javier’s SS25 collection, it literally is and we were captivated by every detail. Making his Paris Fashion Week debut, the Spanish designer delivered a bold, seductive yet minimalist collection. He explored a variety of textures, combining sheer lace, fitted silhouettes, and lingerie with unexpected elements like faux fur coats, Nike caps, and sleek 3D horn structures. The sculptural horns heightened the avant-garde feel and it’s safe to say Luis de Javier will become a daring force in the realm of contemporary fashion very soon.
Japanese brand Sacai, founded by Chitose Abe, showcased a collection that beautifully merges street style with high-fashion craftsmanship. The designer showcased a skillful blend of layers and fabrics, featuring silhouettes made from denim, leather, and unique combinations that balanced refined elegance with a touch of edge. Notable details, such as distinctive cuts and textures set the collection apart, Abe is renowned for redefining hybrid fashion and here she does so exquisitely, while also paying homage to Japanese artisan traditions and core house codes. It is no surprise that Sacai has garnered for itself, a cult following for its originality such as the fashion world has seldom seen before.
(left) Luis de Javier SS25 & (right) Sacai SS25 credit: Dominique Maitre
Fresh off the back of his LVMH Prize win, Duran Lantink’s presented his SS25 collection that was as playful as it was avant-garde. Taking his knack for the quirky and making it wearable, Lantink conjured up countless looks using jersey, the ultimate comfort fabric. Black and white dominated the runway, accented by florals, stripes, and denim pairings. Exaggerated silhouettes, such as bulging bikini tops, were key highlights. Accessories like cross-shaped bangles and earrings added to the audacious visuals. Lantink’s playful approach to beachwear included padded bodysuits as well as bikinis, transforming models into surreal, extraterrestrial figures. His creativity emphasised a novel take on modern, experimental fashion that certainly kept the audience enthralled.
Antonin Tron, the visionary behind the Paris-based brand Atlein, is currently the man of the moment with his exciting new collaboration with Kylie Jenner’s clothing line, Khy. During this season's runway show, Atlein’s womenswear collection drew inspiration from radical lesbian movements, celebrating the nuanced nature of femininity with an edgy tomboy twist. The collection mixed fabrics seamlessly, suede skirts, draped and ruched dresses were crafted from delicate materials, alongside tailored overalls and trench coats. Atlein’s meticulous attention to detail and minimalist design aesthetic, show off modern Parisian style at its best, and we look forward to witnessing the brands future creations.
(left) Duran Lantink SS25 & (right) Atlein SS25 credit: Courtesy of Duran Lantink and Atlein
This season, Rokh transformed discarded fabrics, laces, and threads into delicate flower blossom shapes. These once shapeless materials were meticulously washed, stitched, and re-knit to create unique and sustainable designs. Rokh's designs weren't just about fabric—they told stories through unexpected shapes and movement, mixing energy with calm, like a dance, blending the old and the new, combining tradition with the latest trends.
Rokh SS25 courtesy of Rokh
Why does this season feel like a love letter to fashion enthusiasts and the epitome of luxury, with high fashion moving away from the likes of streetwear? Collections defied imagination leaving us in awe. The week saw young designers, who have worked tirelessly —sometimes with minimal financial aid, striving to add their names to the annals of the most prominent week on the fashion calendar. Elsewhere established designers delved further into their creative skill reminding us why we fell in love with their designs in the first place. Once again Paris has proven that it is the epicentre of the best whether new or old.
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