By Sara Fabek Zovko
Paris Fashion Week Men's Fall/Winter 2025 showcased transition, growth and new strategies for the future of fashion.
With the creative director shake-ups of 2024, 2025 fashion weeks are already highly anticipated. The new names at the helms of some of the biggest brands have created a set of high expectations, and this Paris Fashion Week has done its job as the beginning of transition demonstrations within the fashion world.
Peter Copping’s Debut Collection For Lanvin
Courtesy of Lanvin
Copping’s Lanvin debut functioned as an “homage to Jeanne Lanvin’s world” and captured the fashion icon’s early 20th century essence in a modern context. The sleek, everyday looks Copping brought to the runway earned him a well-deserved standing ovation.
The collection seamlessly blended womenswear and menswear, exuding a quintessential chicness that honoured the house codes without being overly referential. Subtle nods to founder Jeanne Lanvin were evident in the Art Deco-inspired, gold-on-black embroidered silks and velvets, as well as the Art Deco showspace itself, reminiscent of Jeanne's 1920s home interiors. The finale's two off-the-shoulder dresses, a black velvet ballgown and a gold lamé tea-length party dress with ruffled petals, were particularly evocative of Jeanne Lanvin's style.
The Prodigal Jacquemus Returns
Fillippo Fior/ Gorunway
After five years of showing outside of the Paris Fashion Week schedule, Jacquemus returned to the roster with a token location selection and a collection that put an old Hollywood spin on classic Jacquemus designs. The iconic designer’s return definitely made a splash, with runway icons like Alex Consani and Adriana Lima sporting the pieces.
Sharp double-breasted blazers paired with sharply pleated trousers. Waist-cinched minimalist coats flowed effortlessly over loose, buttoned pants. Structured formal coats created a contrast with short shorts. Women's looks, including drop-waisted skirts and hourglass dresses, accentuated the wearers figures with a touch of old Hollywood glamour.
Dior’s Haute Spins
Courtesy of Dior
Although Kim Jones is rumoured to be leaving Dior as men’s creative director, the Dior Fall/Winter collection presented in Paris underlined his work for the fashion house in the most elegant way possible. Despite being presented at menswear fashion week, the collection involved precision and structure on the level of couture, and even put a haute touch on a sweatshirt.
Inspired by renowned designer Dior's iconic "H Line" from his Fall 1954 haute couture collection. The collection emphasised elongating the silhouette, and the "H Line" itself featured double-breasted formalwear shaped to resemble the letter "H".
Louis Vuitton’s Culture Fusion
Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
A collaboration with Nigo - artistic director of Kenzo, this year’s Fall/Winter Louis Vuitton collection by Pharrell Williams skilfully combined the brand’s archives with Japanese culture elements. Varying from cherry blossom pops and matcha-tea ceremony trunks to pizza necklaces and lobster-shaped bags, the collection was a perfectly fusion of two differing cultures and styles.
Pharrell's distinctive dandy style blended seamlessly with Nigo's passion for functional 20th-century workwear, creating standout pieces like sakura pink chore jackets and a matching cherry blossom damier suit, each adorned with decorative brooches. The collection showcased a range of Japanese denim, introduced a new skate-inspired sneaker called the 'ButterSoft', and culminated in a selection of tailored looks. This progression from streetwear to formalwear mirrored both Nigo and Pharrell's personal style evolution, and the overall shift in menswear since their collaboration began.
Hermès’ Fall Fashion
Courtesy of Hermès
Hermès leaned into the Autumn vibes with a collection of coats and jackets in neutral colours. Blanket jackets and layered high-shine raincoats ensure a cosy feel and elegant layering for the autumn months.
The collection featured utilitarian jackets alongside a variety of short coats, including bombers, parkas, raincoats, flying coats, and duffel coats, seamlessly merging technical details with sophisticated style. Both visually calming and stimulating, the collection exuded a delicate and subtle essence. Even the typically mundane business suit was revitalised, with Nichanian introducing a sharp and exciting narrow-arrow double-breasted design.
Kidsuper Takes Paris By Storm
Courtesy of Kidsuper
The Kidsuper show, titled "From a Place I Have Never Been," took place at the Halle Charlie Parker in La Villette. Famed artist, Daniel Wurtzel's kinetic sculptures, which bring air to life, were a central part of the set design. A literal tornado, created by Colm Dillane and Wurtzel, swirled at the centre of the runway, setting the stage for a whirlwind of surrealism and collaborative capsules.
The collection showcased a collaboration with legendary Japanese streetwear brand, BAPE on a capsule collection featuring shark hoodies, camouflage jackets, and a pinstriped suit adorned with vine leaf patterns and a caricature Baby Milo T-shirt featuring Dillane himself.
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