By Bethany Berkeley
Courtesy of Dries Van Noten
As fashion month rounds up with Haute Couture Week, We’re taking a look back at the best moments from Paris Fashion Week. From Maison MIHARA YASUHIRO’s karaoke-filled show to A$AP Rocky’s surprise show and Dries Van Noten’s farewell extravaganza. It’s been a rollercoaster week and here’s what went down!
Rick Owens Goes To Hollywood
Look 4B Courtesy of Owenscorp
Rick Owens, Godfather of grunge and dark tones, surprised audiences with a lighter and more hopeful collection this season. The collection, titled "Hollywood," marked a departure from his signature goth aesthetic, embracing a vision of love, community, and unexpected beauty.
The show consisted of an army of 200 students, clad head-to-toe in flowing white robes, walking the runway to a Hans Zimmer-worthy soundtrack. With this, Owens created a powerful image that evoked a sense of unity and belonging, a stark contrast to the often-isolated figures his collections typically present. The white served as a blank canvas, a symbol of new beginnings and a rejection of the darkness often associated with the designer. Pointed shoulders, a recurring motif in Owens' work, remained prominent, adding a touch of drama to the flowing white garments.
Dior's Art Focused Collection
Adrian Dirand
This season, Kim Jones's collection for Dior was a dialogue between past and present, practicality and artistry. Drawing inspiration from South African ceramicist Hylton Nel for the collection, hand-crafted ceramic buttons and artistic prints played key roles in his designs. Coupled with clean silhouettes and sharp lines defining blazers, trousers, and coats, this juxtaposition spoke to the modern man's desire for both artistry and functionality in his wardrobe.
The collection blurred the lines between traditional menswear and utilitarian workwear. Denim jackets were layered over blazers, creating a more relaxed and contemporary silhouette. Oversized trousers were paired with practical clogs, while tailored coats maintained a sense of formality. This fusion of styles reflected the changing nature of work and leisure in the modern world.
Karaoke Night With Maison MIHARA YASUHIRO
Courtesy of Maison MIHARA YASUHIRO
Mihara, known for his avant-garde approach, deconstructed traditional garments, opted for a more playful show this season, creating a runway filled with unexpected proportions and a touch of joyful chaos.
The show opened with an infectious energy that was reminiscent of a 90s karaoke night, perfectly setting the tone for the playful spirit of the collection. Oversized shirts hung loosely over deconstructed jeans, some featuring multiple legs for a whimsical touch. Jackets were worn asymmetrically, a nod to Yasuhiro's disregard for traditional tailoring. This dismantling of conventional garments allowed for a sense of freedom and individuality on the runway.
Kid Super's Takes Us On A Trip To The Circus
Courtesy of Kid Super
For SS25 Kid Super's Colm Dillane collaborated with Cirque du Soleil to bring together performance art and fashion. Known for his theatrical runway shows it was no surprise that his latest collection was unveiled in a theatre setting.
Opened by Cirque du Soleil, guests were entranced by the live-action circus performance. Models became marionettes walking to the beat of a hip-hop soundtrack. The collection itself was circus themed with co-branded pieces featuring logos from both KidSuper and Cirque du Soleil hinting, adding a touch of big-top flair. Oversized tailoring served as a canvas for Dillane's vibrant artwork and bold prints.
A$AP Rocky Storms Paris With AWGE
Courtesy of AWGE
A$AP Rocky, the multi-hyphenate rapper and fashion icon, sent shockwaves through Paris Fashion Week with a surprise debut for his clothing line, AWGE. the historic Hôtel de Maisons became the stage for "American Sabotage," with "Protesters" staged outside the building holding signs that read "DON'T BE DUMB" perfectly portraying the rebellion theme of the collection to follow.
Drawing inspiration from American counterculture. Sailboat prints, a symbol of carefree adventure, adorned flowing shirt dresses and denim splashed with paint, expressing a sense of artistic freedom. Bomber jackets with the American bald eagle printed on them were vandalised with a defiant "F$CK YOU!" scrawled across them.
Guests packed into the heated venue included Rihanna -of course!- Pusha T, Jonathan Anderson, Michele Lamy, Marine Serre, Rema, Wisdom Kaye, and many more.
Fashion Bids Adieu To Dries Van Noten
Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images
After decades as a pioneer in the industry Dries Van Noten took his final bow at the end of his show, urging guests not to be sad it was over but to be happy that it happened. The master tailor final show was held in an industrial building just outside of Paris. Guests arrived in droves to pay farewell to the renowned designer, including Thom Browne, Diane Von Furstenberg, fashion critic and editor Suzy Menkes, Glenn Martens, and fellow Antwerp Six Alumni Anne Demeulemeester and Walter Van Beirendonk. The runway was paved with silver, reminiscent of his Autumn/Winter 2006 gold runway, while familiar faces who had walked his runway shows in times gone by were back for his finale.
Dries's farewell embodied his signature style: muted tailoring with single and double-breasted suits exuding sartorial mastery. However, a touch of subversion was present. Sheer mesh tops and trousers layered over undergarments, catching the light and elongating the silhouette, hinting at a playful sensuality beneath the classic exterior.
After 40 years at the helm of his namesake brand Dries Van Noten steps aside for the next generation of designers. Although he is stepping away from the fashion industry -still in his prime- he leaves behind a great legacy which is something only the greats get to do.
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