By Valentine Fabre
Peter Do continues asserting himself as a driving power of the industry. Thanks to his strong creative vision and even stronger tailoring skills, Do has once again won the hearts of many with this SS24 collection.
Just over three weeks ago Peter Do made his debut as creative director for Helmut Lang during NYFW. The collection was a bold, modern, and consistent take on the iconic brand. There is no other way to describe Do's debut collection but as effortlessly chic with an ounce of erotica. Highly similar, and complementary to his previous collection for Lang, like the same story from a different point of view.
Loyal to his usual artistic vision, Do explored the subtle juxtaposition between black and white as well as different materials and the depths they can add to each other. Leather and silk cotton were the central them of the collection. Fluid shapes met tailored silhouettes with a great emphasis on office wear reinterpretations, whilst occasional sheer fabrics added sensuality where needed.
Knitwear sported long sleeves which were cut seemingly to let the shoulders and arms breathe, and blazers were transformed into sleeveless vests tied right above the belly button. In between the neutral shades of white, grey, black, and beige, spots of bright red appeared a slight reminder of the subtle touches of flashing pink seen throughout Helmut Lang’s collection.
Though the collection had an overall more serious and maybe understated aspect than Do’s usual glamorous work, it pertained to his usual strong sense of tailoring and singularity. A unique vision that has led him to play with layering within the garments and with geometrical shapes, and that made the Do brand what it is today.
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