By Sara Fabek Zovko
Dries Van Noten SS25 (Courtesy of Dries Van Noten)
The brand debuted its first collection since the retirement of its founder earlier this year.
After Dries Van Noten’s retirement from fashion in June earlier this year, his namesake brand has presented its first collection without its founder at Paris fashion week. Without a new creative director named, the brand’s in-house team was responsible for designing the Spring/Summer 2025 collection shown this past Wednesday.
The teamwork behind this collection guaranteed a heartfelt and elegant tribute to Van Noten’s legacy and 38 years in the industry. The vibrant prints and playful colour schemes combined with the sophistication we have all come to expect from the brand, created the extension of, “the earliest women’s collections through what lies ahead,” as is emphasised in the label’s show notes.
Dries Van Noten SS25 (Courtesy of Dries Van Noten)
This journey from past into future is embodied in elegant, flowing pieces and borderline chaotic styling combinations which include satin pieces combined with classic trench coats and pairing standout skirts with bomber jackets. The vibrant colours on the runway don’t take away from the refinement of the collection, often contrasted with earthier tones in the looks that follow, and in the end, it is this lack of real order to the in-house created collection that makes it a brand to look forward to in the future.
The nominal designer himself was present at the runway, and seemed to be more than satisfied with where the label is headed without him at its helm. If it wasn’t already a certainty, his approval has underlined the bright future for the brand.
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