By Bethany Berkeley
Filippo Fior/ Gorunay.com
The Sacai show, which took place amidst the grandeur of the Carreau du Temple, saw designer Chitose Abe return to the foundations on which her brand was founded.
The show was a mixture of men's Autumn/Winter 2024 and women's Pre-fall 24 drawing on Abe's love for all things uniform, the collection came together in a uniquely seamless manner. Exploring shapes, reconstructing silhouettes, and sticking to its ever-present monochromatic themes, the show saw a multitude of models clad in utilitarian designs march down the runway with a languid appeal coupled with an elegant air.
The collection featured a military jacket with cargo pocket detailing and skirt life details below the hem, paired with relaxed-fit trousers. True to the house codes Abe reimagined classic tailoring with peacoats transformed with the addition of billowing arms, white dresses had pleated skirts adorned with cargo pockets, and shearling coats with voluminous sleeves adopted the skirt-like finish seen throughout the collection. Cargo detailing translated from women's to men's, emulating the collection's uniformity. Relaxed knits were also present in the collection, as well as striking yellow dresses with ruched sleeves, their models holding small dainty leather handbags.
Filippo Fior/ Gorunay.com
Known for her ingenious collaborations, Abe teamed up with skateboarder and artist Mark Gonzales this season on a series of patches emblazoned on bomber jackets cropped just above the dust line. In utilitarian hues such as military green, black, and sandy grey, the patches can also be seen on both t-shirts throughout the collection with the words ''one love'' on them—a main takeaway theme of the collection.
Nothing short of a masterclass in deconstructivism, Chitose Abe has once again blurred the lines between chaos and order, presenting a collection that was both uniform and elegant.
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