By Sara Fabek Zovko
Courtesy of Schiaparelli
Dispelling the new waves of minimalism, Schiaparelli’s Daniel Roseberry effortlessly combines antique with modern.
Presented at the Petit Palais in Paris, Schiaparelli’s new Haute Couture collection titled 'Icarus' took to the runway proving, once again, why the fashion house is a Couture Week favourite each year.
Using Lyonnaise ribbon known for its use during World War 2, Daniel Roseberry’s attention to detail delved deep into exploring craftsmanship and escapism. Throughout the collection, the iconic couturier invokes the ghosts of couture past while simultaneously creating pieces that are completely and inarguably future-proof.
Drawing inspiration from couture history, the collection featured silhouettes ranging from the sleek Art Deco styles of the 1920s to the classic 1950s babydoll A-line dresses. Each piece was finished with delicate details that nodded to couture designs of the past. While showcasing a variety of looks, every silhouette celebrated both the past whilst opening up a dialog about the future with equal panache.
Courtesy of Schiaparelli
Straying very far from today’s “quiet luxury” and omnipresent minimalism, Roseberry created an ode to maximalism with this collection, calling for its return. Among the 33 looks, each pushing both technical and visual boundaries - from treating feathers with glycerin and keratin to emulate a waxy look, to bustier, baroque inspired gowns and intricate embroidery, minimalism was nowhere to be found.
Schiaparelli’s Spring 2025 Couture collection has underlined why the house renowned for what it does, and has cemented Daniel Roseberry as one of the great couturiers of our time — and perhaps even brought maximalism back!
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