By Madeleine Foster
Cris Fragkou
An immersive experience of film and fashion.
JW Anderson's Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection was a departure from the usual runway routine. Instead of the typical trend forecasts or reinvention of classic silhouettes, Anderson delved into the world of cinema, specifically Stanley Kubrick's enigmatic 1999 film "Eyes Wide Shut." The result? A collection that was equal parts dreamlike and unsettling, with a touch of subversive elegance.
In a cheeky subversion of sartorial norms, models strutted in nothing but sheer black hose and playful knits, accessorised with poinsettia brooches and cat sweaters. This wasn't your average runway walk; it was a bold statement on masculinity, served with a wink and a smile. Breaking new ground (and trousered expectations) The cult classic films' influence was evident from the very first look. Floor-length knit dresses, crafted in collaboration with artist Christine Kubrick (Stanley's widow), showcased her gentle brushstrokes in muted tones, blurring the lines between fashion and fine art. These gowns were juxtaposed with oversized knitwear, some adorned with abstract motifs reminiscent of scenes from the film itself.
Anderson's signature play on proportions was also present, with voluminous silhouettes contrasted by tailored trousers, sumptuous double-faced coats with roomy sleeves, and outsized collars. Other standout pieces included cardigans lined with satin puffs, with bloomers to match, oversized cotton blousons and fuzzy cardigans, paired with baggy cargo pants, and classic trenchcoats, adorned with epaulettes and tab-like lapels.
JW Anderson Men's AW24 & Women's Pre-Fall
The women's pre-fall collection saw mini trenches take centre stage, reimagined with a modern edge. T-shirt dresses were given a playful twist with pointed skirts. For evening, the spotlight shone on cocktail numbers that revelled in deep-V necklines and a clever double-glove trick – built-in sleeves playfully layered with additional pairs, dangling with nonchalant elegance.
The collaboration with Christine Kubrick was a major highlight of the collection, adding a unique artistic dimension to each piece. In a world saturated with trends and fleeting moments, Anderson offered two collections that lingered long after the final looks, leaving a lasting impression on the minds of those who witnessed it.
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