By Maria Mukaranda
Theo Wargo/GA/The Hollywood Reporter/Getty Images
In celebration of the Costume Institute's spring exhibition, “Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion,” the Met Gala 2024's theme, “The Garden of Time,” unfolded as a tapestry woven from the literary threads of J.G.'s hauntingly romantic and dystopian 1962 short story of the same name. The exhibition showcased "clothing and fashion so fragile that it can’t ever be worn again—and are thus sleeping beauties in the scrupulous archives of the Costume Institute,” according to Vogue.
The night saw an iteration of the annual soiree, held on the first Monday of May, resplendent in thistles, thorns and lashes of tulle, and bold florals.
Florals? In Spring? - Groundbreaking.
One could adopt a similarly sardonic perspective when casting an eye over the white-and-green carpet of this year's Met Gala in the heart of New York City. Here, amidst the glitz and glamour, the theme "The Garden of Time" saw both designers and attendees alike weave their own botanical narratives. Amid the expected blooms, a few thornier breeds and alternative theme interpretations also emerged.
Below are the ensembles last night that epitomised the essence of exactly what a show like the Met Gala should convey: on point with the theme, pushing the boundaries of fashion, yet grounded in the wearer's individual style.
Zendaya in Maison Margiela by John Galliano & Vintage Givenchy by John Galliano (Getty Images)
This theme lends itself well to Galliano’s archival works - one can’t help but wonder if the rumours of the original theme were true: this year almost had nothing to do with “sleeping beauties” or “gardens of time” and instead, the spotlight was set to centre on Galliano, in a retrospective celebrating his rollercoaster career. Three of the biggest names at the Gala garnered particular attention: Zendaya, Bad Bunny, and Kim Kardashian (the two formers also serving as this year's Met Gala chairs), all wearing custom looks by Maison Margiela, crafted by Galliano himself.
Lana Del Rey in Alexander McQueen (Getty Images)
Resplendently nailing the theme yet again, in her signature, romantically ethereal fashion, singer Lana Del Ray, donned a doe-eyed georgette and tulle look from Alexander McQueen. A reference to the British fashion house’s AW06 show, 'The Widows of Culloden', newly-anointed creative director Sean McGirr offered his muse a beautifully sinister interpretation of the night’s theme: a floor-sweeping gown creating a vision of an enchanted tree - branches poking out of a tulle canopy.
Mona Patel in Iris Van Herpen (Kevin Mazur/MG24/Getty Images)
Dubbed the night’s “mystery guest”, Indian CEO/entrepreneur/philanthropist Mona Patel emerged in a beautiful, functionally-animated ensemble architected by Iris Van Herpen and styled by the infallible Law Roach - who also, naturally,- styled Zendaya’s two show stealing looks. The butterfly gown featured a scalloped train and detailing resembling a woodland forest. The mogul took it upon herself to suggest the concept of the mechanical butterflies, which adorned the gloves and fluttered as she moved.
Rebeca Hall in Danielle Frankel (Getty Images)
Hall’s look sees the subject of Sir John Everett Millais's Pre-Raphaelite style painting “Ophelia” come to life. The theme of the gala was reimagined in a dress that the actress and filmmaker herself described as “[looking] like water made of flowers” and accompanied by gloves with floral motifs that continued up the arms and onto the shoulders in a watercolour-esque manner. Designer Danielle Frankel stated "The fabric is printed with a watercolour effect, and then hand-painted with florals that dégradé softly up the body, all made in Italy with a lot of intention. [...] We layered the fabric, played around a lot until we found the right way for it to hang on the body; not too feminine and feeling like it just swings off the body."
Chloë Sevigny in Dilara Fındıkoğlu (Getty Images)
Through Sevigny, we were offered a uniquely historical interpretation of the theme that included upcycled Victorian-era pieces, ornamental detailing, and “mourning hair” braids. The Met Gala mainstay described the look as “something of a rebirth, a decay.”
Barry Keoghan in Burberry (Getty Images)
Since ‘Saltburn’ Star Barry Keoghan was made a Burberry Brand Ambassador, the critically acclaimed actor has carved a niche for himself within the menswear scene wearing fun, fresh and shapely-executed looks - including his royal blue ensemble for the prior Met Gala. This year, Keoghan was accompanied by girlfriend Sabrina Carpenter, who stunned in a voluminous, sleek Oscar De La Renta Gown. Keoghan himself, came as a dark moss-green velvety version of the Mad Hatter - embodying “a stylish and eccentric” overtone, according to Burberry Creative Director Daniel Lee, who through the use of Saville Row, created a suit that looked like it was transported from the Victorian era. The look was a reference to Count Axel, the main character in “The Garden of Time” and was crafted to remould the notion of traditional tailoring in an experimental way that made sense for Keoghan.
Ayo Edebiri in Loewe (Getty Images)
Edebiri has had a great past few award -laden- months and now, at her inaugural Met Gala, the actress and comedian was a vision on the night, wearing custom Loewe, the Met Gala’s sponsor, Edebiri wore a halter neck gown with intricate detailing and hand-painted gradient 3D appliqué flowers. The charming sartorial elements were elevated to further heights by her equally, lush and dewy hair and makeup: flushed rosy cheeks and gemstones adorning both fingers and her hair.
Elle Fanning in Balmain (Getty Images)
Leave it to Balmain to ensure a touch of the theatrical aptly made its way to this year’s MET Gala carpet. One of which saw Grammy-winning musician Tyla steal the show with a look exploring time through the motif of sand. Fanning, on the other hand, was more frozen in time, in a dress which included “transparent fronds” and “frosted” with “diamond brilliance.” The look - which was visually beautiful, wonderfully on theme and perfectly suited to its wearer - transformed Fanning into a mythical princess. The silver sandals and Cartier accessorising perfectly accentuated the crystalline sculptural gown, held up by two “birds’ affixed to either shoulder.
Mindy Kaling in Gaurav Gupta (Getty Images)
In what proved to be a fantastic night for South Asian talent, the multi-hyphenate producer was a surreal, sculptural vision. Befittingly named “The Melting Flower of Time”, the dress was designed by Gaurav Gupta and featured a translucent beige organza that waved and undulated, enveloping Kaling in ethereal petals - punctuated with floral jewellery and understated glam.
Emma Chamberlain in Jean Paul Gaultier (Getty Images)
Returning to the Met for the fourth consecutive year as one of Vogue’s presenters, the YouTuber-turned-fashion personality Emma Chamberlain, traded her effortlessly casual, ingenue aesthetic from previous Miu Miu appearances for an arresting Jean Paul Gaultier ensemble. The look by Gaultier - an ode to the AW03 couture collection - featured dark brown corseted lace, giving it a shadowy allure, embellished with thorns that wound around her arms and a long, intricate train.
Honourable Mention: Wisdom Kaye in Robert Wun (Getty Images)
Having garnered particular attention amongst circles of fashion enthusiasts on TikTok, Wisdom Kaye has a fashion lexicon as diverse as it is experimental. Seeing the fashion influencer make his Met Gala debut was a treat, wearing none other than Robert Wun, a Hong-Kong-born designer who has also gained significant traction recently for his beautifully stunning and eccentric collections.
Wearing a striking red ensemble which featured a trench coat with burnt accents, Kaye's look also explored the intriguing facet of decay and decomposition that ran parallel to the theme of the night, similar to Lana Del Rey and Chloë Sevigny's looks on the night.
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