By Bethany Berkeley
Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Corbis via Getty
Simon Porte Jacquemus unveiled his Autumn Winter 2024 collection, aptly named "Les Sculptures," in a sun-drenched show at the Fondation Maeght in Saint-Paul-de-Vence, France.
As the title suggests, the collection was an ode to artistic form, blending the fluidity of fashion with the rigidity of sculpture. The collection immediately struck a chord with its clean lines and architectural shapes. Tailored blazers with exaggerated shoulder pads and cinched waists created powerful silhouettes, reminiscent of Alberto Giacometti's elongated figures, which the gallery itself houses. Models sauntered down the runway clad in sublimely structured croc-embossed jackets and skirts, adding a touch of texture and dimension to the collection. Whilst two-piece skirt suits and mini dresses exuded a modern elegance.
Jacquemus' signature colour palette of sunny beige, warm yellow, and pops of black and red took centre stage, and the occasional animal print - a recurring motif in the designer's work - added a playful touch without compromising the overall sophistication. A subtle yet undeniable influence of the 1980s could be seen throughout the collection. The voluminous shoulder pads, cinched waists, and bold animal prints echoed the era's power dressing aesthetic, reimagined with Jacquemus' signature minimalist touch.
Courtsey of Jacquemus
As always, the Jacquemus show attracted a bevy of A-list celebrities, including Julia Roberts, Kristin Davies, and Kylie Jenner. On the runway, Gigi Hadid opened the show in a striking eggshell yellow coat, setting the tone for a collection that was both powerful and effortlessly chic.
Overall, Jacquemus' "Les Sculptures" was a triumph of minimalist artistry. The collection embodied the designer's signature blend of clean lines, bold colours, and playful details, proving that fashion can be both sophisticated and fun.
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