By Bethany Berkeley
Credit: Cris Fragkou
Held at the imperious Château De Versailles, Simon-Porte Jacquemus unveiled his SS24 collection which was an ode to both Marie Antoinette and Princess Diana set on the lake side of the chateau on a ruby red runway, the collection was indeed majestic.
Known for his show stopping and unique runways this season was no different, with a star studded guest list, a selected few showers had the illustrious opportunity of being escorted by rowboat to watch the show on the banks of the river. The Château De Versailles as a backdrop is no mean feat for the independent brand. "During the first meeting I was told that it wouldn't be possible," Jacquemus said. "Now, it's crazy, I have a one-year contract," he added, pledging "something special" to come. Amongst the guests were David and Victoria Beckham, Emily Ratajkowksi, Drag Race icon The Symone who's hair was pumped up to max, no doubt inspired by Marie Antoinette, amongst many others.
The collection was dubbed “LE CHOUCHOU” which is French for ‘darling’ also the name of the Jacquemus hair scrunchie, inspired by the scrunchie-like shapes of the dresses made from tulle. As onlookers watched from boats along the riverbank, models glided down the 400 metre run way, (without breaking a sweat) enveloped by reds, whites and blues all regal colours. Showing both womenswear and menswear on the runway, the collection offered lingerie sets made of transparent lace, tulle, and silk, producing peplums and bustles over short puffed up skirts and square-toe ballet pumps that updated French traditions.
Trading raffia and linen for silks and lace, Jacquemus explores a new interpretation of volume this season, with many references to Princess Diana and the ballet seen throughout the collection; a black and white polka dot dress, a nod to the late Princess’s party dresses, a slouchy V-neck red knit sweatshirt and a reimagined version of the choker she wore with the infamous ‘revenge dress’ worn by Kendall Jenner could all be seen waltzing down the runway. New iterations of Jacquemus' fan favourite bags also made their debut. Emulated by gold ring handles and a simplistic body in leather, quite distant from the playful accessories Jacquemus is well known for. This season the accessories are more polished, exalting the practicality of the collection.
A more refined menswear offering debuted on the Jacquemus runway, featuring a black suit constructed with a puffy off-shoulder arm, “I wanted something very elegant, ballet-inspired, even for men," he said. Other notable menswear pieces included a puffy bomber jacket in white and baggy white trousers, detailed with a tiny white belt and worn with a cricketer’s polo shirt.
A nonconformist at his core Simon Porte-Jacquemus has proven time and time again that consistency is key. His consistently unique designs and runway shows are what make the designer and his brand so renowned today and so as they say, “let them eat cake!”
Credit: Isidore Montag/Gorunway.com
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