By Maria Mukaranda
The Garment SS23 (Adam Katz Sindig)
Yet to achieve global-scale recognition are countless number smaller independent brands, these uncut gems are quietly carving their paths to potential fashion stardom. However, these are the designers who, more often than not, dictate the next runway trend, experiment in unchartered territory whilst throwing out the rule book, rewriting it, or simply just making the rules work for them.
Here are six independent brands on the rise.
Diotima
Diotima AW24 (Dion Trinidad)
Meet Diotima, the Jamaican designer brand rewriting fashion's narrative with soul-stirring crochet creations and a rebellious spirit. Founded by Kingston native Rachel Scott, Diotima draws inspiration from her childhood memories of climbing mango trees and crafting intricate garments. Scott's deep-rooted connection to her heritage shines through in every stitch, as she weaves together the rich tapestry of Jamaican culture with contemporary elegance. From seductive cut-outs to delicate draping, each piece exudes a sense of empowerment and individuality, amplifying the voices often marginalized in the fashion industry.
Visit Diotima.world
Florence Black
Florence Black AW22
At Florence Black, their story began with a profound connection to heritage and a passion for timeless style. Inspired by the rich tapestry of pre-1960s culture, founder Finn Lewis embarked on a journey to redefine fashion through quality craftsmanship and thoughtful design. The seed for Florence Black was planted when Finn stumbled upon a piece of history in his grandfather's wardrobe—a coat worn by his grandfather on the day British runner Roger Bannister made history with the first sub-four minute mile. Enamored by the garment's enduring quality and timeless appeal, Finn envisioned a brand that celebrates individuality and self-expression. Launched in 2018, Florence Black embodies the wisdom of their inspiration Gianni Versace: "Don't be into trends. Don't make fashion own you, but you decide what you are."
Visit Florenceblack.co.uk
LUEDER
Lueder
Lueder have positioned themselves at the forefront of sartorial innovation, blending founder Marie Lueder's journey with avant-garde design in their recent collection MONO-MYTH. With a commitment to sustainability and community collaboration, each garment serves as metaphorical “armour”, protecting "body, mind, and soul". Their most recent show at Berlin Fashion Week marked a significant milestone in their journey to inspire positivity, unity, and healing through transformative fashion.
Visit Luederluederlueder.com
Paolina Russo
Aidan Zamiri
Paolina Russo, a knitwear label by CSM graduates Paolina Russo and Lucile Guilmard, merges futuristic aesthetics with a rich folkish heritage. With a deep respect for both human ingenuity and natural resources, their sculptural knitwear embodies innovation and tradition in equal measure. Their recent show at Copenhagen Fashion Week, part of the Zalando Visionary Award, showcased their Spring/Summer 2024 collection, Monolith. Drawing inspiration from prehistoric cave markings and childhood chalked pavement scribbles, the collection celebrates human ancestral wisdom with a contemporary twist. From intricately laser-cut denim adorned with runic symbols to talismanic wooden fastenings on slouched jersey tops, each piece exudes an optimism for the enduring power of traditional craftsmanship in a technologically-driven world.
TORISHÉJU
Torishéju SS24
TORISHÉJU, the eponymous label of designer Torishéju Dumi, brings a unique blend of tradition and modernity to both womenswear and menswear. Born and raised in North-West London, Torishéju's creative journey began with the influence of her mother's penchant for 19th-century design and art, which infused her family home with a sense of elegance and history. Drawing from her Nigerian-Brazilian heritage and Catholic upbringing, Torishéju's work is imbued with themes of religion, tradition, and spirituality, creating garments that resonate with cultural depth and a contemporary flair.
The Garment
The Garment SS23 (Tonya Matyu)
Founded in 2020 by creative director Sophia Roe and designer Charlotte Eskildsen, Copenhagen-based brand The Garment embraces the principles of minimalism and sustainability. The brand is dedicated to crafting garments that transcend fleeting trends and find a permanent place in their owner's wardrobe. Rooted in a feminine interpretation of simple Scandinavian style, The Garment's versatile collection is designed to inspire continuous restyling, ensuring longevity and versatility in every piece. From timeless midi dresses to impeccably tailored serge trousers, each garment is meticulously crafted from sustainably sourced, natural, and recycled fabrics, reflecting the brand's commitment to environmental responsibility. In partnership with Norwegian climate company Chooose, The Garment goes above and beyond by offsetting the CO₂ impact of each article it produces.
Visit Thegarmentcopenhagen.com
On the come-up and steadily climbing, these brands are sure to provide you with exceptional looks for the warmer seasons, no matter your style.
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