By Sara Fabek Zovko
Isidore Montag/ Gorunway.com
Music, academia and sportswear cross paths during Paris Fashion Week.
For some time now, Grace Wales Bonner has been one to watch, and her Paris Fashion Week show has underlined why.
Whilst one may expect low-key, muted colour schemes to get tired, Grace Wales Bonner has created a classic yet innovative line for her new collection. Shown at the National Conservatory of Arts and Crafts, the classy, understated collection was a perfect fit for the softly lit, intimate environment. The softer atmosphere of the chosen venue for the Autumn/Winter 24 show definitely didn’t diminish the effect of the well-curated collection. The collection, titled "Engraft," delved into the rich tapestry of Black British identity, drawing inspiration from the Caribbean diaspora, working-class communities, and craftsmanship. The result was a symphony of textures and silhouettes, where traditional tailoring met deconstructed knitwear, and bold prints danced alongside subtle plaid.
Marked by browns, greys and blues with the occasional splash of colour, each piece created an open space, allowing the minimalistic collection to take maximum effect. With a slightly preppy feel conveyed through well structured, yet softly tailored blazers and classic knitwear, Wales Bonner successfully avoids looking uptight or dull. Combined with elements of leather, denim and oversized outerwear, the collection creates a perfect balance between academia and chic street wear that verges on sportswear.
Isidore Montag/ Gorunway.com
Oversized lapels on polished suits found stability in the relaxed slouch of pleated baggy denim, whilst strong-shouldered coats and leather aviator jackets exuded a scholarly swagger. Fuzzy parkas added a touch of cosy rebellion to the mix, perfectly made for a generation that values both comfort and style. Grace Bonner also revealed the latest in her long list of adidas collaborations during the show, though this time not an Adidas samba but a crocodile-embossed Superstar sneaker. Along with a bedazzled workwear Timberland boot, another collaboration which sees the designer stepping out of her comfort zone.
An homage to Howard University —founded as a theological seminary for black clergymen in 1867— the occasional appearance of the word “HOWARD” is seen throughout the collection. why Wales Bonner has been at the top of people’s fashion week favourites lists, but set the scene for an incredible continuation of the designer’s career. Following Yasiin Bey's captivating rap performance on a central runway stage, a beaming Wales Bonner joined the legendary artist for a bow symbolising the fusion of music and fashion that defined the AW24 collection.
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