By Ayanda Ntuli
Wales Bonner
For a long time, the fashion industry has been viewed through a Eurocentric lens, perpetuating the notion that style and the trailblazers of fashion and design, solely emerge from Western societies. However, there is a rich and diverse world of fashion in the Global South, where style is often a powerful form of expression inspired by local cultures and traditions. As we celebrate Black History Month in the UK, it's essential to recognise the rising prominence of black designers who are reshaping the global fashion landscape. Their diverse talents and unique perspectives are not only gaining recognition but also earning respect on the world stage. This article will profile black designers who are making significant waves and leaving an indelible mark on international fashion.
South African luxury brand Thebe Magugu, named after its founder, is a prime example of this rising wave of talent. Magugu pays homage to South African traditions and culture through his garments, drawing inspiration from the country's rich heritage. His designs, known for their bold prints and sleek, vintage-inspired silhouettes, often weave in cultural and political stories that reflect post-colonial Africa. In 2019, at 31 years old, he made history as the first African designer to win the LVMH Prize for emerging talent. Magugu has also collaborated with renowned brands like Dior, Adidas, Net-a-Porter, Bergdorf Goodman, and Dover Street Market. His designs have been worn by A-list celebrities, including Beyoncé, Kylie Jenner, Michelle Obama, Miley Cyrus and Rihanna. This is a testament to his widespread influence and appeal.
Thebe Magugu
Nigerian-born British designer Mowalola Ogunlesi is the epitome of an "It girl" in the fashion world. Since graduating from Central Saint Martins, the 29-year-old designer has made waves, serving as the design director for Kanye West’s Yeezy Gap partnership and working with notable brands like Wales Bonner and Celine. Celebrities such as Naomi Campbell, Drake, Kim Kardashian, and Solange Knowles have all been spotted wearing her designs, further cementing her influence. Mowalola defies the typical image of an African designer. Her bold, provocative designs are cutting-edge, drawing inspiration from London’s street style while infused with elements of her Nigerian heritage. Her collections blend fashion with social commentary, using her platform to highlight the nuanced experiences of Black identity.
British-Jamaican designer Grace Wales Bonner launched her menswear label, Wales Bonner, in 2014 after graduating from Central Saint Martins. Initially focused on menswear, the brand later expanded to include both men's and women's clothing. Her designs blend British tailoring with Caribbean influences, sportswear, and a vintage, sophisticated aesthetic. Bonner’s collections reflect her deep research, often drawing inspiration from African culture. In 2016, she won the LVMH Prize, and since then, she has collaborated with brands like Adidas Originals, Dior, Swarovski, and Manolo Blahnik. She is a great example of black designers showcasing their global influence and creativity. Celebrities such as Solange Knowles, Hailey Bieber, Meghan Markle, and Usher have all been seen wearing her designs.
(Left) Mowalola SS25 & (right) Wales Bonner SS25
Iniye Tokyo James is a British-Nigerian fashion designer and LVMH Prize finalist who began his career in London, where he studied Mathematics before transitioning into the fashion industry as a stylist. He directed digital campaigns for major brands like Brioni, Issey Miyake, and Puma Black Label before establishing his own label. In 2015, he founded his menswear brand, Tokyo James, which quickly gained popularity. His collections are influenced by human interactions and incorporate elements of traditional style, with a focus on gender fluidity. Through his designs, James also challenges stereotypes in Nigeria surrounding fashion and masculinity, challenging conventions of what it means to be a modern man in fashion. His designs have been worn by many high-profile artists and he continues to gain recognition for them.
Last but not least, another British-Jamaican fashion designer is Bianca Saunders. She is a notable addition to the pool of young, gifted and black designers making their mark industry. At just 31 years old, she made history as the first Black woman to win the prestigious ANDAM Prize. After founding her luxury menswear brand in 2017 upon graduating from the Royal College of Art, Saunders transitioned her label to a unisex line, receiving praise for her creative approach. Her designs blend traditional and modern influences while merging masculine and feminine elements. Deeply rooted in her British Caribbean identity, her clothes exude timelessness, discarding the notion that they belong to any particular era. She has collaborated with brands like Gucci and Wrangler and her designs have been worn by celebrities such as Usher, Burna Boy, and Donald Glover.
(Left) Tokyo James SS25 & (right) Bianca Saunders SS25
These designers represent just a glimpse of the immense talent breaking into the fashion industry, showcasing their work on a global stage. While they leave a significant legacy behind in the fashion world, challenges remain for those who do not fit the traditional mould. However, we are witnessing a progressive shift toward embracing diversity and celebrating inclusion. These standouts not only honour their heritage but also challenge traditional norms, paving the way for future generations of black designers to reimagine global fashion narratives with their unique perspectives and creative expressions.
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