By Bethany Berkeley
Christina Fragkou
Y/Project's SS24 collection, presented at Paris Fashion Week in October 2023, was a marvel of contorted denim and reptilian décor.
Creative Director Glenn Martens once again proved his unwavering design prowess with a collection that effectively twisted the rules for what contemporary fashion can be. The collection opened with oversized tan trench coats featuring hoods and skin-revealing sections that were let loose by intricate buttons. Small tops, reading the brand's name, were twisted and tied in the front for distortion. Subversion was the keyword this season, with varsity jackets completely rearranged across the body to create unconventional tops that still felt familiar, and buttons on dresses mismatched, fuelling the line's carefree persona with something purposefully incorrect.
Later on, the collection took a turn for the avant-garde, with shirts, pants, and skirts assuming tornado-like facades via multi-dimensional ruching. But the most striking aspect of the collection was its use of denim and reptilian details.
Y/Project SS24
Denim was manipulated in new and innovative ways, with pieces such as a hooded denim look that Rihanna would rock effortlessly, and gathered denim bags, crumpled dresses, and bunched-up boots. Reptilian details, such as snake necklaces and snakeskin-inspired prints, added a touch of danger and intrigue to the collection.
Overall, Y/Project's SS24 collection was a tour-de-force of Martens' unique and visionary design aesthetic. It was a collection that pushed the boundaries of contemporary fashion and challenged the viewer's perceptions of what is possible.
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